Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these stories and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
